Phytonutrients — nurturing beauty from within and without Posted by admin , Monday, January 18, 2010 at 11:32 AM, in Labels: Beauty, Health, Phytonutrients

The concept of ‘beauty from inside and out’, where orally consumed nutritional supplements (nutricosmetics) and topically applied cosmeceuticals work in harmony to promote physical appearance and well-being, is becoming increasingly popular.



Vitamin and mineral deficiencies, poor antioxidant status, impaired digestion and compromised immune functions are all reflected in a sallow complexion, lifeless hair and brittle or discolored nails. The oral intake of antioxidants such as carotenoids, selenium, proanthocyanidins (found in grape seed extract, apples and other plant sources) and vitamin E is reported to reduce the risk of DNA damage by ultraviolet radiation that leads to skin aging and skin cancers. The protective effects of orally and topically administered curcumin, the pigment in turmeric, against melanoma are well researched. Similarly, orally administered soy isoflavones and green tea polyphenols offer protection against photoaging through inhibiting the action of enzymes that degrade connective tissues.


Advances in technology have now made it possible to produce healthy natural ingredients that seamlessly blend into conventional formulations. This article reviews recent developments in nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals, and highlights novel phytonutrients for internal and topical use.


Introduction


A radiant appearance is essentially a reflection of optimal health and well being. This forms the underlying principle of current trends in the personal care industry. Cosmetic products no longer seek to cover up signs of aging. The root causes of skin, hair and nail damage are addressed externally by using cosmeceuticals and internally with nutraceutical supplements.


The skin is a protective organ, the largest in the body in terms of surface area. Environmental, metabolic and chronological factors can cause temporary or permanent pathological changes in the skin resulting in the external manifestations of aging. These factors include ultraviolet radiation, atmospheric pollution, increased atmospheric ozone, wounds and infections, hormonal status, metabolic diseases, psychological stress, and the natural process of aging. Dietary and topical interventions potentially help to slow down the signs of aging.


Skin and the digestive tract as conduits for nutrient delivery


The skin is the largest organ in the body in terms of surface area, with functions and effects that are far deeper than ‘skin deep’. The skin actively participates in the body's homeostasis through its abundant microcirculatory and sensory functions. Its appendages participate in the excretion of sweat and metabolic by-products, and by possibly participating in the regulation of melatonin – a hormone that regulates circadian rhythms in the body. Healthy looking skin therefore reflects overall health and warrants optimal well-being.


The process of aging of skin, hair and nails can be potentially slowed down through dietary and topical intervention1. Natural antioxidants that quench free radicals potentially offer protection against damage to the tissues and modulate the detrimental effects of environmental and other agents. Biochemical reactions that accelerate the progression of skin aging have their roots in inflammatory processes, as inflammation generates micro-scars that mature into blemishes or wrinkles. Natural anti-inflammatory agents are therefore included in anti-aging formulations, and serve to soothe, heal and protect skin tone and integrity. Lipids such as unsaturated fatty acids reinforce the skin's barrier function, prevent moisture loss through the epidermis and provide structural integrity. They also help to soften and smooth the skin by inhibiting the formation of corneous cells.


Proteins and amino acids nourish and hydrate the skin, hair and nails. Bioactive peptide technology inherent in ingredients such as Matrixyl (a branded palmitoyl oligopeptide) has made a mark in anti-aging skin care products in the wake of the increased demand for BOTOX alternatives that lift and smooth aged skin. Runaway successes based on bioactive peptides include branded products such as ‘Regenerist’. Nutrients such as vitamin A and derivatives, vitamin B-5, vitamin C and derivatives, vitamin E and derivatives also have versatile uses in personal care products.


Photoaging is accelerated by exposure to the ultraviolet rays of the sun, and prolonged sun exposure over a period of several years is reported to increase the risk of skin cancer. Sunscreens serve to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation. The toxicity of effective dose levels of synthetic sunscreens in terms of potential damage to the body is a matter of great concern. A recent study reports the possible endrocrine disruption effects of certain sunscreens. Approved sunscreens such as octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) and 4-methyl benzylidene camphor (4-MBC) have been found to show estrogenic activity in in vitro and in vivo studies. A combination of natural actives administered through nutritional and topical routes could potentially offer enhanced sunscreen protection without deleterious side effects.


To retain structure integrity of skin, hair and nails, adequate bioprotection, moisturization and nutrient supply for cell renewal are essential. The rationale for skin health through nutritional interventions and topically applied nourishment is easy to develop. Consider for example the ‘sunshine’ vitamin, vitamin D, the increasing benefits of which in the prevention of a variety of diseases ranging from cancer to multiple sclerosis forms the subject of contemporary research. The production of the active form of vitamin D from 7-dehydrocholesterol occurs in the skin. People with diminished exposure to sunlight have been known to have vitamin D deficiency correlated with a higher rate of decreased bone mineral density or osteoporosis, a higher rate of skin cancer, increased susceptibility to seasonal affective disorder (depression), or SAD, and increased susceptibility to multiple sclerosis, rheumatoid arthritis and other disorders related to immunological functions. In conjunction with daylight therapy the concomitant oral vitamin D supplementation is considered to be an important treatment for SAD2, 3.


The process of aging gradually diminishes both the ability of skin and the digestive tract to metabolize nutrients optimally to sufficiently nourish the body. Therefore, delivering functional molecules including antioxidants, vitamins and minerals, probiotics, digestive aids, detoxicants, cleansers, weight management support agents, and bioavailability enhancers, through the diet and as topical application offers a comprehensive approach to support healthy aging.


Changes in nutrition affect skin condition


Overall skin condition is the result of processes such as sebum formation, hydration and acidity. Concentrations of vitamin A in the serum and intake of fat in the diet are associated with several skin characteristics. High serum vitamin A is associated with decreased skin sebum content in men. Increasing serum vitamin A is linked to decreasing skin-surface pH in men and women. An increment in serum ß-cryptoxanthin concentration is associated with an increase in skin hydration in men, but not in women4.


Daily administration of 2 g ascorbic acid and 1000 IU of a-tocopherol over eight days produced statistically significant protection from erythema induced by UVB and UVA. In patients with erythropoietic protoporphyria (EPP), ß-carotene prevented photosensitized inflammation5-7. The provitamin A activity of ß-carotene contributes to its photoprotective properties8.


Vitamin and mineral deficiencies, poor antioxidant status, impaired digestion and compromised immune functions are all reflected in a sallow complexion, lifeless hair and brittle or discolored nails. The oral intake of antioxidants such as carotenoids, selenium, proanthocyanidins (found in grape seed extract, apples and other plant sources) and vitamin E is reported to reduce the risk of DNA damage by ultraviolet radiation that leads to skin aging and skin cancers9, 10. A recent study reports that curcumin; the antioxidant pigment from turmeric, is useful in the oral treatment of melanoma11. Nuclear factor-kappaB (NF-kappaB) and its regulator Ikappa-B kinase (IKK) play a central role in cell survival and proliferation in human melanoma. In studies on three melanoma cell lines, curcumin treatment decreased cell viability of all three cell lines in a dose-dependent way.


Curcumin was found to downregulate NF-kappaB and IKK expression in melanoma cells. Orally administered soy isoflavones, green tea polyphenols and other antioxidant phytonutrients were found to offer protection against the UVA induced action of enzymes that degrade connective tissues (matrix metalloproteinases, MMP), thereby inhibiting collagen and elastin degradation12, 13.


Antioxidants may help against prevention of sunburn and long-term skin damage because prolonged exposure to UV radiation decreases endogenous antioxidants in blood and skin. A recent study examined the influence of two different antioxidant supplements composed of carotenoids, vitamin E and selenium on parameters related to skin health and skin aging. Thirty-nine volunteers with healthy, normal skin of skin type 2 were divided into three groups and supplemented for a period of 12 weeks. Group 1 received a mixture of lycopene (3 mg/day), lutein (3 mg/day), ß-carotene (4.8 mg/day), a-tocopherol (10 mg/day) and selenium (75 microg/day). Group 2 was supplemented with a mixture of lycopene (6 mg/day), ß-carotene (4.8 mg/day), a-tocopherol (10 mg/day) and selenium (75 microg/day). Group 3 was the placebo control. A significant increase in skin density and thickness, and improvement in skin roughness and scaling was observed in the antioxidant supplement groups14.


Illustrative examples of phytonutrients as nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals


Natural antioxidants


One example is the curcuminoids-rich turmeric extract well known for its antioxidant properties, antimicrobial effects and beneficial effects on inflammation. Turmeric has been traditionally used by South Asian women in skin care since ancient times. The multifunctional health benefits of the curcuminoids are well researched and these antioxidant compounds are potentially useful in preventing inflammation and several types of cancer15. A common spice used in South Asian cooking, turmeric and more appropriately the curcuminoids have been clinically validated for their nutraceutical benefits. However, the yellow color may be unattractive to contemporary formulators of topical formulations.


An innovative patented colorless (white to very light tan) derivative, tetrahydrocurcuminoids, addresses this drawback, and offers effective protection against sun damage. Its antioxidant action is comprehensively ‘bioprotectant’, efficiently preventing the formation of free radicals, while quenching pre-formed ones as well, thereby protecting the skin cells from damage by UV radiation and the resultant inflammation and injury16. This in turn has far reaching beneficial effects on overall health and well being, giving the skin a healthy glow. Additionally the composition efficiently lightens skin tone17.


A significant molecular mechanism of action is the inhibition of cross-linking of proteins, with benefits in supporting healthy aging. This in turn offers several nutritional and topical benefits including photoprotection, skin lightening effects and a boost in skin luminosity. A research group in Japan explored the potential role of green tea polyphenols and tetrahydrocurcumin in increasing the life spans of animal models. Their studies revealed that the increase in life expectancy beyond 24 months under the conditions of the experiment was 125.9% in tetrahydrocuercumin treated mice, 72.6% in polyphenols treated animal models, as compared to untreated controls18.


Natural hydration


Natural moisturizers that nourish and tone the skin represent another innovative application of natural extractives in personal care products. One example is coriander seed oil, a rich source of petroselinic acid, linoleic acid and related fatty acids. These fatty acids are constituents of ceramides that are inherently present in the stratum corneum and prevent moisture loss from the skin surface. Coriander seed oil therefore has a healthy role in personal care. Polysaccharides such as chitosan and derivatives, low molecular weight glycans for example, tamarind seed polysaccharides, tissue components such as hyaluronic acid and complexes, and other actives are popular as natural moisturizers. Fats such as shea butter, cocoa butter and coconut oil derivatives are other naturals that support skin texture and hydration. A patented extract from sugarcane wax, rich in long chain aliphatic alcohols (policosanol), is another valuable hydrating agent for internal and topical use.


Nutrients and electrolytes conveyed through the digestive tract and the skin together help to rejuvenate and heal the tissues internally and externally. Coconut water, the liquid endosperm of green coconuts, available for use in formulations as a patented lyophilized product, is an excellent rejuvenating and hydrating agent19.


Natural toning and conditioning


Coleus forskohlii roots are the rare plant source of forskolin, a diterpene compound activating cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP), an important second messenger hormone that participates in biochemical reactions in the body. This extract from Coleus forskohlii roots is a valuable skin conditioning agent in personal care formulations and smoothes and tones the skin. Taken internally, a patented extract standardized to contain 10% forskolin is useful in weight management. It helps to build lean body mass at the expense of body fat, with beneficial effects in skin condition and firmness as well20.


Enhancing uptake and utilization of actives


Nutrients supplied internally need to be absorbed adequately to exert their health benefits. A patented natural extract from black pepper fruits, standardized to contain a minimum of 95% piperine is an effective bioavailability enhancer for nutrients21. In clinical studies the extract significantly improved the uptake and utilization of ß-carotene, coenzyme Q10, vitamins C and B6, curcumin, and other natural actives. Similarly, although a number of healthy ingredients may be present in topical compositions, these actives may not permeate through the stratum corneum. A number of chemical ‘permeation enhancers’22 have been used to improve permeation of active compounds. These include compounds such as dimethyl sulfoxide and alcohols that may sometimes damage the skin surface. Sophisticated active delivery technologies such as liposomes/nanosomes and natural materials such as essential oils are also used to enhance the delivery of actives, but could increase the cost of the formulation. A natural patented spice extract tetrahydropiperine23, derived from black pepper, effectively enhances the uptake of bioactive compounds when included in very small amounts in formulations containing other actives.


The ingredients listed in this summary are only a very small selection from the multitude of nutraceutical and cosmeceutical options available for nutricosmetic and cosmetic product formulations. The sources of these ingredients have a history of culinary, medicinal or topical use spanning centuries. Technological innovation enables these phytonutrients to be adapted into forms that seamlessly blend into contemporary nutricosmetic and cosmetic compositions.
 Reference :
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CTMW March 2007